Dark circles

The history of anti-dark circles care follows that of skin research: better understanding what produces a visible mark, then looking for a way to act on it. Work on pigmentation, hydration and tissues around the eye has gradually given rise to different approaches, which current products sometimes combine in the same formula.

The 2000s: going beyond just color

In 2002, Hakozaki and colleagues studied the effect of niacinamide on pigmentation. Their experiments describe a reduction in the transfer of melanosomes, the structures that transport melanin, and their tests on the face observe a lightening of certain hyperpigmentations. This work does not specifically address all types of dark circles. They nevertheless provide a biological basis for the use of this active ingredient in treatments intended to improve the uniformity of the complexion.

In 2009, a small study of fourteen people looked at two forms of vitamin C applied under the eyes for six months. Researchers measure the color and thickness of the skin, rather than just the impression of a healthy glow. The results differ depending on the form tested; the increase in thickness observed with one of them remains a non-significant trend.

The 2010s: studying complete formulas

In 2015, Ahmadraji and Shatalebi evaluated patches containing caffeine and vitamin K in an oil base, using eleven women. After four weeks, the authors report an improvement in the appearance of the eye contour. The trial remains small and compares this association to a patch containing water: it does not allow all the benefit to be attributed to caffeine, nor to predict that of another serum.

At the same time, clinical classifications more clearly distinguish pigmentary, vascular, structural and mixed components. The review by Sarkar and colleagues, published in 2016, emphasizes the identification of causes and associated factors.

Today: encouraging results, to be specified

A review published in 2025 brings together twenty-two studies on local treatments, including seven randomized trials. She notes favorable results with several types of formulas, while calling for better linking each treatment to the origin of dark circles. The useful question therefore becomes: which product helps which person, on what type of dark circles? This development invites you to choose a targeted treatment and check its effect, rather than looking for a universal concealer.