Facial cleansing

Help water carry away fatty substances

Water removes some of the soluble deposits, but it does not mix well with fatty substances. Surfactants have a part that interacts with water and another with fats. They thus facilitate their dispersion and elimination when rinsing. This is what allows a cleanser to remove certain sebum or cosmetic residues more effectively than a simple passage of water.

The formula and type of residue are as important as the word cleanser on the bottle. In the 2019 sunscreen study, the oil studied removed the water-resistant product better than water alone or the cleanser tested. This doesn't prove that all oils are superior to all gels, but it does explain why changing methods may be more helpful than scrubbing for longer.

The skin is not a surface to be completely degreased

The stratum corneum, on the surface of the skin, combines cells and lipids which participate in the barrier function. Certain surfactants can interact with its proteins and lipids, modify its organization and promote water loss. Cleaning therefore seeks a balance: removing what needs to be removed without unnecessarily disturbing the structures that maintain skin comfort.

A feeling of very tight skin after rinsing is not proof of superior effectiveness. On the contrary, it can signal that the gesture or the formula are poorly adapted. A gentle product sometimes leaves a softer feel, especially if it contains conditioning agents. This feeling alone does not indicate that there is dirt remaining, nor does itchy skin guarantee a better result.

pH matters, but doesn't sum up sweetness

Traditional soaps are generally alkaline, while the skin surface is naturally slightly acidic. Syndets offer more freedom to adjust pH. This parameter can count for tolerance, but a label displaying a pH close to that of the skin is not enough: the nature of the surfactants, their combination and the other ingredients also influence the result.

Nor is foam a direct measure of cleaning or irritant power. A low-sudsing product may clean well, while a foaming formula may remain well-tolerated. For your routine, the useful criterion is concrete: are the residues removed without burning, redness or repeated dryness? This is more informative than choosing solely based on the quantity of bubbles.

Acne doesn't just come from a dirty face

Acne notably involves the follicle, sebum, inflammation and microbial interactions. Cleaning accompanies its treatment, but is not always enough to act on these mechanisms. Dermatological recommendations therefore favor gentle washing rather than frequent and aggressive passages.

A 2006 trial compared several washing frequencies in men with mild to moderate acne. Data on this question remain limited and do not allow us to deduce a perfect rule for all skin types. The morning and evening benchmark is practical, but individual reactions and associated treatments must guide adjustments; washing more is not a one-size-fits-all treatment.

Cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize meet different needs

The cleaner mainly removes materials present on the surface. Exfoliation acts on the renewal of this surface, while a moisturizer helps maintain its water and comfort. Some products combine several functions, but this does not make their accumulation essential. A routine already containing exfoliating active ingredients can benefit from keeping a cleanser simple and well tolerated.